THE SUNDAY STAR-LEDGER

SECTION FOUR

     It would be faint praise to describe the Japanese/French cuisine at Ixora as dazzling.  The marriage of these cuisines is nothing short of wedded bliss in the hands of chef/owner Timothy Chang.

     Round, golden shrimp fritters float in the spicy band sour soup ($7), which settles like glowing velvet on the tongue.  A slight kick is carefully crafted not to overwhelm the enoki and shiitake mushrooms, bamboo and cilantro that also flavor the brew.

     Chilean sea bass ($24) set on orange sections is encrusted with lemon, basil and thyme.  The fish is accompanied by squid cleverly cut to look like pasta, sauteed with delicate snow peas and enoki.

     Uncooked sweet shrimp, delicate as a baby's kiss, are deftly curled over mango salsa and topped with a layer of black tobiko (salmon eggs) that add saltiness and crunch to this spectacular appetizer ($14).  There are literally dozens of other dishes on the menu that replicate a sense of wonder.

     Ixora is in a strip mall where a flower shop run by the Chang family is also located.  A none-too-glamorous sign puts the restaurant's name atop a listing that also includes "video."  Ixora's dining rooms are spacious and perfect for conversation, with carpeted floors and padded chairs.  Light is provided by Japanese sconces and lanterns, but the atmosphere is more European than Asian, unless you sit facing the busy sushi bar, which offers a complete menu of its own.

     Chang is a native of Taiwan who has some Japanese forebears.  The restaurant, 20 years old, began with Chinese food. adding Japanese items some seven years ago.  The French/Japanese concept represents a "drastic evolution" of the establishment, said Chang, who trained in the kitchen.

     A generous serving of fabulously tender free-range lamb chops ($24) was crusted with the traditional Japanese seven-spice mixture shichimi togarashi, in which red peppers and ginger play a big role.  The crisp-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside fried agedashi tofu ($9) comes with a sweet and sour cucumber salad and is beribboned with Japanese steak sauce and soy sauce.

     It was difficult to decide among the five soups.  My favorite was the spicy and sour, but the spiced cream of kabocha squash ($6) topped with shredded chicken was aclose second for autumnal fullness of taste.  The chowder ($8) made from edamame (fresh soybeans), is a heavenly pale green, the perfect backdrop for shrimp that tingle with basil and garlic.

     The highest-priced appetizer, at $18, is the moulard duck foie gras, meltingly rich and dense, crowned with a delicate sesame tuile (a paper-thin crisp cookie) and served with a confit of umeboshi  (Japanese plum) and a clear Gewurztraminer gelee.  But you can spend far less and be equally pleased, as with the bowl of chilled soba noodles ($8) bathed in a red curry peanut soy dressing, served with snow peas and the cucumbers.

     You really should indulge in a four-course meal here, because the soups and appetizers are as intriguing as the entrees.  And you shouldn't skip the fantastic desserts produced by Chang's sister Melissa.  She makes all her own sorbets and ice creams, to great effect.  A chocolate covered espresso ice cream bombe would be a great dessert on its own, but paired with a chocolate volcano cake topped by gold leaf ($12), it's the perfect choice for a couple to split.  A tarte tatin made with Fuji apples ($12) was among the best I've ever had.  It shared its glory with luscious vanilla ice cream in apple cider caramel sauce.

     End the meal with tea brewed in an iron pot.  The golden sen cha ($6) from Japan was a mild pale tea, very soothing and in character with our meal.

     The servers take orders and bring food efficiently, but if you want detailed explanations, take your questions and observations to the dining room managers, easy to summon with a look or a smile.  They are watchful and solicitous, well informed about food and quick to get answers.

     Ixora is an amazing experience from start to finish for those who like culinary excitement yet want to be treated gently on their adventures.  This is a trip worth taking many times.

     Cody Kendall can be reached at CodyDine@netscape.net.