A SPECIAL COMBINATION

Ixora in Hunterdon County Offers a Very Successful Fusion of French and Japanese Cuisine

     «««1/2 - By Lois Mattson

     I have never really understood the saying "life is uncertain, eat dessert first" until I encountered the rice pudding dessert at Ixora.

     I have daydreamed about it since having it, have stopped myself from jumping in the car to get more, and decided that you should hear about it first!  It is a decidedly unsweet rice pudding with butterscotch sauce and coconut ice cream.  It's sensational, worth every calorie, and a trip on its own merit.

     Ixora has been around for awhile.  Owned and operated by the Chang family, it is a French-Japanese fusion kitchen.  I usually think fusion means confusion, but the Changs pull the concept off very well.

     The result is interesting dishes, beautiful presentation and some exciting new tastes.

     The restaurant is part of a strip mall, but once you are inside, you will forget that.  It is quite large, two rooms divided by a center hall.  One room is strictly for dining, while the other also has a small sushi bar with some very good-looking sushi chefs.  Tables are well spaced, white clothed and lit by cylindrical oil lamps.  Each table has a small vase with one very large bloom.  Everything is subdued except the carpet that is a riot of leaves, offsetting the quite atmosphere nicely.

     The menu is large, and somewhat confusing with all of the new spices, sauces and vegetables, but our hostess was very knowledgable and adeptly led us through it.

     The sliced assorted sashimi on California roll ($10) was the height of freshness.  It was served on a long, rectangular green plate.  Each of us received a smaller rectangular plate and a sauce dish for mixing the wasabi and soy sauce to our liking.  The attention to details with serving dishes is outstanding.

     The spiced cream of kabocha squash and chicken soup ($7) could also have been a dessert.  It arrived in a deep, dark brown bowl, swirled with creme fraiche, centered with a spicy peanut sauce.  The flavors were rich and unusual.  We also tried the lobster salad with baby greens and a Dijon lemon dressing with basil oil ($16).  This was a whole lobster tail, sliced into medallions, enough to make everyone happy.  I had a hard time deciding on these appetizers, as everything looked wonderful and exotic.  I'll be back.

     Entrees were also difficult to choose, so we let our trusty hostess lead us.

     She recommended the Chilean seabass ($24).  This was crusted with lemon, basil and thyme, served with squid pasta sauted with snow peas and enoki mushrooms.  Not only was it mounthwatering, but it was a work-of-art presentation.

     The presentation was immediately outdone by the grilled prawn with lime, cilantro and chili sauce ($22).  Three fist-sized prawns are served in their split shell on a large green square plate.  Surrounding the prawns are slices of harko rice cake topped with salmon and eel.  The result looked like stained glass.

     My absolute favorite (and fortunately I ordered it) was the shichimi togarashi crusted free range lamb chop ($28).  Shame on you for not knowing what that crust is!  (I didn't either.  It is a Japanese seven-spice powder, with a

good bit of kick to it.)  The lamb chops were cooked to perfection, meaty and wonderful.  They were served with a taro (rather bland root vegetable) puree which I found to be surprisingly good.

     In addition to the opening dessert, we ordered the chocolate volcano for the chocoholic dining with us.  It is a hot truffle cake which is almost like a chocolate pudding inside, served with a raspberry compote and cardamom ice cream.  Desserts are $12 each with the exception of the creme brulee trio (banana, mocha and ginger) which is $9.

     People often ask me which restaurants I would go back to.  Ixora is one of them, and I hope it's soon. Be sure and make reservations if it is a weekend.

By LOIS MATTSON

Correspondent

Dress: Neat Casual

Atmosphere: Minimalist, Quiet Sophistication

Service: Very Professional and Helpful

Value: Expensive.  Expense is offset by bringing one's own wine

Food: French-Japanese Fusion, BYOB